Mr. Smith for New York Fashion Week SS20
Another New York summer has drawn to a close, and with the arrival of fall comes New York Fashion Week (NYFW), where designers recently showcased their collections for the spring-summer 2020 season.
Running from 6–14 September, this year’s SS20 NYFW saw the Mr. Smith team work across a number of shows for some of our favourite labels including AREA, Noon by Noor, Tanya Taylor, A –– Company and newcomer Rui Zhou.
For this season, designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk sought to create a world that examined adornment, embellishment, volume and personal identity. Featuring everything from cage-like corsets and crystal ‘beards’ to broderie anglaise, gingham and Liberty-esque crepe florals, the SS20 collection drew from a range of inspirations including cultural travel and ‘50s and ‘60s Americana to romantic neo-Victorian modernism.
Hair Lead for Mr. Smith, Jawara, created multiple looks including one that used an African thread stretching technique to create shapes which were then adorned with crystals; ponytails made from spaghetti silk organza previously used in couture in the 80s; and wet-look hair combed back off models’ faces with a deep side part.
NOON BY NOOR
The Noon by Noor SS20 runway collection saw designers Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohammed Al Khalifa take inspiration from Bahraini pearls and seashells, with billowing, lightweight fabrics and fluid silhouettes in pearlescent hues dominating the label’s SS20 collection. The pearl was interpreted as a symbolic motif in polka dot prints and woven dotted stripes, while literal forms appeared in fastenings, trims and embroidery, understated, luxurious pieces.
Mr. Smith Hair Lead Edward Lampley created a series of natural looks, including a twisted rope pony with centre part and polished undone waves with centre parts on long hair, along with an emphasis on loose, natural curls on shorter hair.
Held in luncheon format at Tanya Taylor’s Nolita apartment, the NY-based designer’s SS20 collection was a celebration of diversity, inclusivity and female power. Pulsing with creativity and her signature colour, the collection sought to paint a picture of the world they want women to live in. It also paid homage to Taylor’s latest muse, fashion pioneer and founder of legendary 1960s UK fashion brand Biba, Barbara Hulanicki. An energetic collection bursting with both sensibility and frivolity, it saw oversized flamingos meet candy-coloured knitwear, in a nod to Hulanicki’s native Miami.
Mr. Smith Hair Lead, Shingo Shibata created a series of natural-messy looks to suit individual models’ hair, with undone waves, bouncing curls, cornrows and textured knots (knotted around multi-coloured tortoiseshell belt buckles) all featuring.
A –– COMPANY
Founded in 2018 by Texan-born designer Sara Lopez (who studied couture in Paris and worked under Rachel Antonoff), A__Company has become known for its artful deconstruction and reorientation of the silhouettes of traditional wardrobe staples. Focusing on themes of “uniformity and interruption, combined and conflicted,” in a deconstructed, abstract dinner party setting, the label’s SS20 collection (its third) featured a range of layered fabrics, draping, contrasting textures and intricate detailing with classic silhouettes reimagined and cut away to allow exposure – all emphasising the pleasure of repurposed tailoring.
The series of looks created by Mr. Smith Hair Lead Stylist Freda Rossidis saw models showcasing a chaotic, fragmented look, with silverware laced throughout (in keeping with presentation’s dinner party theme). Hair was dry with slight texture; with sporadic, small braids randomly placed around the head; while forks and spoons were intertwined within the braids and edible flowers laced through curls in models’ hair.
Inspired by the bittersweet ache of long-distance relationships, Nascent Brooklyn-based designer, Rui Zhou presented a SS20 collection filled with melancholic nuance. Revealing the detail of the models’ skin beneath, Zhou’s delicate elastic knitted fabrics were held together with Swarovski crystals to symbolise the fragile pull of star-crossed lovers, while textural layers united to glorify the diversity of the human form – in all its perfect imperfection.
Hair Lead for Mr. Smith was stylist Rachel Lee, who worked with themes of water and long-distance love to create multiple looks that paralleled marine life and obstacles. She wove extra-long lengths into some of the models’ hair while braiding away most of their own real hair to create a feeling of emptiness and longing. Others had unfinished sweaty knots and chopped bangs to symbolise frustrated impatience.
New York Fashion Week was only the beginning. Next, we’ll bring you our recaps from the shows we have worked on across London and Paris to create unforgettable looks using the Mr. Smith collection. Follow us on Instagram to keep up to date and click here to see all our past shows.
Style. Substance. Simplicity.